Guitarist Scott Shattuck at the Blues Brunch in Bristol.
When the Sunday brunch was first introduced to America it came with a delightful assortment of breakfast and luncheon foods, everything from hot oatmeal and scrambled eggs to cold cuts and baked haddock. And it was served up with flavorful coffees, soft music and a relaxed atmosphere. (In the Lakes Region, the consensus best was the champagne version served at the old Joanna’s restaurant in Tilton.)
Unfortunately our cultural tendency to assume bigger-is-better eventually SuperSized the experience, resulting in ginormous buffet restaurants with a half-million food choices as you shared your meal with a half-million of your closest friends. Forget about a relaxed quiet ambiance.
Fortunately there’s been a revival of the original brunch buffet at the Cornucopia Bakeryat 26 Central Square in Bristol. Chef and owner Audrey Pellegrino has found success with a “Blues Brunch,” a unique once-a-month creative dining experience. You can start with the ambiance: a cozy “downstairs” diningroom with exposed brick walls, windows open to the rapids of Newfound Lake and blues guitarist Scott Shattuck playing softly in the corner. (The space serves as Cornucopia’s deli/coffee shop on a daily basis.)
If the menu is not quite as diverse as you’d find at a full-service restaurant, it more than compensates with its tasteful choices.
Our favorite was the maple granola baked French toast casserole, made with walnuts and real maple syrup. It was full of sweet flavors in a delightfully soft-and-crunchy texture. (And how exactly is “pancake syrup” produced? Does it get squeezed out of the uneaten pancakes served earlier?)
A properly folded omelet – made to order with fresh eggs and Cajun lobster – was equally yummy. A lobster stew was an unexpected treat. And good old sausage gravy served on a biscuit was surprisingly light.
(The menu items change slightly for each event.)
And it includes a perfect blend of the “usual suspects”: rich corned beef hash, sweet fresh fruit, smoky bacon and sausages, scrumptious pancakes, light French crapes, English scones and a variety of toasts.
All the pastries we tasted – from the sweet almond croissants to the gluten-free blueberry muffins – had a hearty “grain-y” taste that was irresistible.
The “gluten-free” options are ongoing specialties at the Cornucopia so my health-conscious Super Spouse enjoyed the baked potatoes and onions dish casserole.
There’s no need to make reservations for the Blues Brunch but you may want to call ahead to be sure of the best time. It’s held the last Sunday of every month – that means this coming up Sunday, September 30, from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. The cost of this all-you-can-eat yumfest is more than reasonable: $9.95 for adults and $6.95 for children. Call 217-0005, or check out cornucopiabakery.com (or cornucopiabakery.blogspot.com). for more details. (Pellegrino also operates Cornucopia Catering at 568-8156 and 768-3214.)
It’s the return of the right way to kick off the week.
